Abstrait

Biomimetic endorphin for wrinkle lifting in a daily cosmetic remedy.

Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Antonietta Bernardi, Federica Forgione, Antonia Sacchi, Sonia Laneri

Background: Over time there has been an evolution in cosmetics to find substances that can minimize the signs of aging. In this scenario, peptides play an essential role in obtaining a lifted skin face. The most effective substance used as a lifting ally is the botulinum toxin; subsequently, to its discovery, several biomimetic peptides were synthesized to find other valid compounds. The developed SH-Pentapeptide-5 is an endorphin peptide associated with a delivery system based on Conjugated Linoleic Acid (CLA) amidified with Glutathione. This innovative system, tested in vivo compared to placebo through a single-blind clinical trial, carried out the following actions when applied topically on the panelists' skin face. Methods: This innovative system, tested in vivo compared to placebo through a single-blind clinical trial, carried out the following actions when applied topically on the panelists' skin face. 1) Soothing action: the CLA is a precursor of the anti-inflammatory PGE2 that gives an antiaging effect linked to the micro skin inflammations relief. 2) Damaged skin repair: through interaction with the hemidesmosomes. The in vivo tested peptide causes the disassembly of the hemidesmosome chains favoring cell migration towards damaged skin areas to heal tissue wounds. 3) Botox-like effect for endorphin-like action: the peptide acts on the neuromuscular synaptic junction in the facial muscles, where through interaction with its target, delta-opioid receptor, it determines a hyperpolarizing effect on the presynaptic neuron. This hyperpolarization inhibits the acetylcholine release; in this way, muscle excitability is inhibited. As a result, the mimic muscle relaxes, and the expression lines are less visible. Results: results show that the GluthathioneCLA-SHPentapeptide-5 is a promising ally in treating typical aging dysfunctions. It can lift face wrinkles and firm the skin when applied twice a day topically for a month. In contrast with other peptides like the botulinum toxin, this system is not an injective treatment; consequently, it does not cause side effects, and in addition, it can be conveyed in cosmetic formulations without the need for medical intervention. Conclusion: results show that the GluthathioneCLA-SHPentapeptide-5 is a promising ally in treating typical aging dysfunctions. It can lift face wrinkles and firm the skin when applied twice a day topically for a month. In contrast with other peptides like the botulinum toxin, this system is not an injective treatment; consequently, it does not cause side effects, and in addition, it can be conveyed in cosmetic formulations without the need for medical intervention.